North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Pamiagdluk Island, New Routes on the Baron and Baronet
Pamiagdluk Island, new routes on the Baron and Baronet. About two weeks after the Anglo-Irish team mentioned above, a seven-member British team set up Base camp to the south west of the Baron, two to three hours above the Baroness Base Camp. From here, nine routes were climbed. Most of these were located on the lower flanks of both the Baron and Baronet and did not go to the summit. Leanne Callaghan and Glenda Huxter climbed three new routes. On the pinkishorange South East Face of the Baron, a steep triangular wall right of the South Ridge, the pair put up Free Will (370m, 12 pitches, E3 5c) following an impressive line up a huge diagonal crack system to reach the crest of the South Ridge, which was descended by rappel. This asccnt took place on the 3rd August. On the 15th they climbed a prominent corner system on the South East Face of the Baronet to create The Cams, the Cams (300m, seven pitches, E2 5c). This ended at the midway terrace and as the rock on the upper section of this face is not very appealing, none of the routes established here continued to the summit. A week later the same pair put up the Supercrack of Greenland (170m, four pitches, E3 5c) a superb and sustained crackline to the right of The Cams. They also repeated the Cowie/Marsh route Red Dihedral and the South Ridge, as did everyone else on the expedition, which they found excellent, particularly the Dihedral; a superb route of classic status. Their route up the south ridge involved two pitches of E2 5c, passing an in situ bolt.
Tim Neill and Louise Wilkinson repeated Little Foxy (one pitch: E3 6a) to the right of Supercrack, a line first climbed in 2001 by Tom Briggs. They then moved 50m left of Supercrack and re-climbed another Tom Briggs pitch (55m, E5 6b), then extended it for a further five pitches to the midway terrace to create 21st Century Arctic Fox (250m). A small crag below the face also yielded Life of Riley (100m: two-pitches: E2 5c). With Tim Riley they also attempted the big banana-shaped groove 150m right of Supercrack, climbing 10 pitches and nearly two-thirds of the way up the face at E3 5c and A1 before dangerously poised blocks in an inescapable corner blocked further progress.
Neill and Riley followed Callaghan and Huxter up Red Dihedral but just below the summit a falling rock struck Riley hard. He sustained chest injuries but was tidily evacuated to Base Camp by the rest of the team. A further five days went by before a passing boat could be attracted and Riley rescued.
Matt Perrier and Jude Spancken repeated several routes and added The Pink Power Tower, a seven-pitch crack system in a corner on the South East Face of the Baron, finishing on top a tower. Neill and Wilkinson repeated the E4/5 6a route, praising the quality and suggesting it was better than Astroman in Yosemite. One bolt was placed at most belays.
Leanne Callaghan, United Kingdom