North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Kangikitsoq Fjord, Tupilak Tower, Sandro e Vito; Lorenzo Peak, First Ascent, Freedom Pillar Route

Publication Year: 2005.

Kangikitsoq Fjord, Tupilak Tower, Sandro e Vito; Lorenzo Peak, first ascent, Freedom Pillar route. “In the footsteps of Vikings” (Mark Richey, AAJ 2001) was the inspiration for our 2004 to trip in Greenland. In the first week of bad weather Sergio Dalla Longa, Rosa Morotti, Ennio Spiranelli, and I were in a state of dejection because of the quantity and ferocity of black flies and mosquitoes. Fortunately in the second week a splendid sun cheered up us.

On August 3 we climbed a new route on the north face of an unnamed peak (ca 1,900m) with access from the glacier behind “Tupilak Tower.” We thought it was unviolated, but on top we found a plastic pack. Probably it was left by someone who had climbed an easy snow slope on the south face (with access from another fjord). We named our route Sandro e Vito (300m, 8 pitches, IV+) in memoriam to our friends who died 20 years ago on Monte Bianco (Italy).

On August 7 we made the first ascent of 1,030m “Lorenzo Peak” (Giangi’s newly born son) on the west side of Kangikitsoq Fjord. The route “Freedom Pillar” was 800m, 22 pitches, V+, 21 rappels) plus 250m of scrambling to the top, during three days of climbing on beautiful rock, with two bivouacs on good ledges and 200m of Fixed rope.

Giangi Angeloni, Italy