AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Stiletto, Drag Queen

Stiletto, Drag Queen. On July 26 Justin Cassels, Jonny Simms, and I started up a corner system on the Stiletto that Jon and his girlfriend Kinley had explored a few days earlier. Justin and I had also attempted the route, but we ran out of time trying to negotiate 40' of run-out face climbing (read: I was practicing my Elvis impersonation). This third time, though, we were determined. The route followed a striking corner system on the right side of the formation, right of the existing line on the southwest pillar, for 3.5 pitches of clean, sharp 5.10- 5.11+ climbing. Exiting the corner proved to be the mental crux of the route, and requiring 40' of basically unprotected but brilliant 5.10- climbing. We resorted to aid for 12' in a steep corner, likely free-climbable at 5.12, and bivied on a huge ledge. We finished the next day via stacks of awesome 5.9 to 5.11-cracks separated by spacious belay ledges. We feel that this is an excellent route, with aesthetic climbing and decent rock. We placed no bolts, but left slings, stoppers, and a few pins on the rappels. About 2,000', V 5.11+R A2.

Ari Menitove, AAC