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North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Bear Tooth, Unforgiven to Serac Base

Bear Tooth, Unforgiven to serac base. On May 13 Gilly James and I climbed a gully on a west-facing buttress of the Bear Tooth [located to the right of the prominent hanging glacier southwest of the Bear Tooth summit—Ed]. Approach from the Root Canal, just past the broad snow couloir that separates the Moose’s Tooth from the Bear Tooth. The route is approximately 350m and involves moderate mixed climbing and a short section of WI6 at mid-height. Enjoyable WI4 pitches in a chimney end near a serac that doesn’t threaten the route. We descended from there on pins and horns. We named the route Unforgiven (M5 WI6).

Ivan Ramirez