American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Gargoyle, Electric View; Pt. 6,000', Phanerotime

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2005

Gargoyle, Electric View; Pt. 6,000’, Phanerotime. In July, Jarle Kalland, Mads Lund, Steinar Holden, and I planned to go to the Kichatna

Mountains, but snow conditions on the glaciers were too bad for landing. That’s why we decided to go to Ruth Gorge. We climbed several routes, including new ascents on Pt. 6,000' (just north of Barrill) and the Gargoyle.

From July 5-13, we four established Electric View (5.1la A2+, 18 pitches) on the Gargoyle. Two-thirds of the climb involved aid, and the route is fantastic. Solid granite, superb cracks, lots of sun when there’s good weather, not too hard, yet steep and airy.

On July 17-18, in 17 hours, Jarle Kalland and I established Phanerotime (5.11b Al, 7 pitches) on Pt. 6,000'. The first pitch had been done before, but from there it’s a new route. The first two pitches are classic. Just a few moves on pitch three make the route Al, otherwise it’s all free. Some pictures from the climb are at: www.njord.as (click Galleri and Alaska ekspedisjon). Drawings and route descriptions are at the Ranger Station in Talkeetna. We had a fantastic month in Alaska, and there are still lots of great climbs undone in the Ruth Gorge.

Lars Mjaavatn, Norway

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