American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Idaho, Sawtooth Range, Goat Perch, Weekend Warrior

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2005

Goat Perch, Weekend Warrior. On June 5 Dave Hopper and I made the first ascent of Weekend Warrior (IV 5.8 Ml-2) on the Goat Perch, in the Sawtooth Mountains. The route followed the narrow, northeast-facing couloir between the Goat Perch and Eagle Perch for 400' of snow and ice, to 60°, before exiting south onto the north face of the Goat. A 50' pitch of easy mixed climbing led to the conspicuous dihedrals on the north face. The first rock pitch ascended the right dihedral, crossed the arête, and climbed the left dihedral, before reaching the bulging, wet, mossy crux of the route. The second pitch continued up left on steep rock to a small belay stance at a pine tree. Pitches three and four were class 4, negotiating steep, broken rock to a good platform just below the summit block. A scramble reached the high point. Two rappels and downclimbing to the west led to the top of couloir, which we rapped and downclimbed. This route may go better in late July when the couloir is firm and the rock up high drier. Good pro exists throughout; 16 hours round-trip to and from car.

Steve Lysne, Boise, Idaho

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