American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Colorado, Sangre de Christo Range, Tijeras Peak, New Routes

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2005

Tijeras Peak, new routes. On July 19, Cam Burns, of the Basalt Bigfoot Coalition, and I attempted to climb the crowning rock ridge that runs east-west on Tijeras Peak (13,604') in the Sangre de Cristo Range. We completed four pitches up the southeast buttress to gain the east ridge before rain and lightning forced a retreat.

We returned on September 11, attained our previous high point, and added an additional nine pitches of roped climbing, simul-climbing, and more than 500' of fourth class scrambling to the summit. This southeast buttress/east ridge combination (East Buttress Route) is on good rock, surprisingly easy, and nearly 3,000' long (IV 5.6).

On September 18 we returned and added the Southeast Face (1,500', III 5.7-5.8) route, starting left of the previous route and joining it at the summit of the second gendarme on the east ridge. The majority of this route is on loose rock, except of the upper pitches, where the rock is solid and exposed.

Benny Bach, AAC

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