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North America, United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountains, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Charm School Boutique, Repeat

Charm School Boutique, repeat. Between The Journey Home and The Cruise on North Chasm View Wall, Jeff Achey found an improbable line called Charm School Boutique (5.12 A2+; AAJ 2004, pp. 180-181). In May, Steve Monks and I free-climbed it, with the aid pitch going at dicey 5.13-. Steve aided the pitch first and left the gear in place. After playing around on top-rope, I led it free. It could be done placing the gear, but not by me that day. Both of the hard pitches are gear intensive, with hand-placed beaks or crack‘n ups helpful on the 5.12 pitch, and the crux has mandatory 5.13-above a #2 RP.

A direct start from the Dylan Wall, a four-pitch 5.12-that leads to the beginning of the Charm School, has yet to be done. To link the two routes and place the gear at the crux would be a mighty day.

Topher Donahue