American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Rocky Mountain National Park, Summary


  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year: N/A
  • Publication Year: 2005

The RMNP summer alpine season was limited by exceptionally wet weather for Colorado. Although Tommy Caldwell and Topher Donahue made a first free ascent, at 5.13-, of Bilge (previously 5.8 A3) on the Ship’s Prow at 12,000', perhaps the only long new route established in 2004 was a springtime mixed route.

Steve Su and Edward Corder climbed what seems to be a new line up the next cleft/chimney system to the right of Womb With a View, on Cathedral Wall. The line, fairly obvious though rarely forming on the sunny wall, offers over 800' of mostly mixed climbing, with a surprising “holy shit, Batman” passage behind a huge chockstone. The route, Tunnel Vision (M4+ WI4+), ends on a plateau with a walk-off descent. Su, Corder, and Andy Johnson were also active in scrapping together various ephemeral 1,000' ice and mixed lines near the gash splitting the south face of Dragons Tail.

Unreported from 2003, Donahue and Scott Gillespie climbed a long-overlooked line, a striking crack just right of Hallet’s Chimney, but left of the Love Route, on Hallet Peak’s 1,000' north face. Bold is Love (5.10-) ascends perfect rock, albeit with the minimal protection typical of the face, and finishes in a large dihedral.

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