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North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Spearhead Mountain, Midevil Wall

Spearhead Mountain, Midevil Wall. From March 22-25 Ammon McNeely and I established Midevil Wall (V 5.9 A3+) over three days. The first day we climbed approach pitches to a killer bivy at the base of the wall. We climbed three pitches the next day and descended fixed lines to camp. On the third day we jugged, climbed three or four more pitches, summited after dark, and rappelled the route to base camp. This wall, on Spearhead, is directly across the canyon from Red Arch Mountain. The route connects faint, natural cracks with much apparently blank face. The face actually yielded amazing placements of stoppers, hooks, tri-cams, and Camalots in pockets, and some free-climbing. It’s an improbable line which needed little drilling: three or four holes for pro, plus anchors at every belay. Photos and a topo can be found at www.rocknclimb.com.

Brian McCray