American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Lone Pine Peak, The Streets of the Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2005

Lone Pine Peak, The Streets of the Mountains. IV 5.10 A0. First ascent September 4-6, by Miguel Carmona and Joe LeMay. This route is on the far western side of the south face of Lone Pine Peak. Ascend the South Gully a short distance, then scramble up right across tree-covered ledges to a ledge with two large pine trees. Walk up a ramp into a slot just below a roof. Move right below the roof into a wide crescent crack (5.7) that ends on a ledge. Climb up and left along a groove into a slot (5.9), traverse to the right to a horn (5.10a), then up a wide layback flake to a hanging belay in a hole in the flake. Continue up to a left-facing inside corner (5.9) that ends at a ledge (descend down and left from the ledge to an excellent bivouac site). From the right end of the ledge, go up and left around a block and then back to the right into the corner, then continue up the face, passing over the first orange dike, and traverse into a wide chimney. Climb the chimney (5.9), followed by a layback up a flaky section into a left-facing corner. Stem up the corner for two pitches (5.8, 5.9) to easier climbing, with a huge chimney overhead; traverse to the right onto a big, loose platform. Move to the right into a left-facing corner, stemming and laybacking (5.9) to a narrow ledge. Easy aid then leads into a wide, loose 5.10 crack, ending with a belay from a large pedestal. Go to the right through ledges and the second orange dike (5.7) to another big ledge in the upper part of the left-facing inside corner. Face climb to the left before traversing back into the corner (5.7) and climbing up to an alcove on the right, beneath a huge roof. Climb the right side of the alcove (5.8) before moving left to a ledge. Easy climbing leads to a notch; go left through the notch and descend 50' before climbing over easy class 5 ledges for two pitches to the summit plateau.

R.J. Secor, AAC

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