Khangri Shar (6,811m) is one of many unclimbed peaks in the Nepal Himalaya opened for climbing by the Nepalese government in the fall of 2002. It is located west of Pumori in the Khumbu Himal in northeastern Nepal. The Changri Glacier flows into the Khumbu Glacier near Gorakshep, through the “Everest Highway.” Khangri Shar soars dominantly between the heads of the East Changri Glacier and its side glacier on the Pumori side. We chose the side glacier as our route, naming it the “JAC Glacier.”

The Khangri Glacier is often referred to as Changri Glacier on older maps. Locals call it “Changri”; therefore “Changri Shar” would be the most authentic name of the peak. (The col on the border was the same as that reached by the Americans in 1990 who unsuccessfully tried the northwest ridge of Pumori and referred to Khangri Shar as Chumo.)

Makoto Nebuka and Sherpa Anu made a reconnaissance in the winter of 2002, and identified three potential routes, only one of which was considered possible for our senior members— over 55 years old. This route leads to the summit via a col on the border and the east ridge. In pre-monsoon 2003 we crossed the Kongrama Pass (ca 5,300m) to acclimatize. We only had a expedition permit for a one-month period, so some of the members had to descend, as they had not recovered from altitude sickness.

Base camp was located on a plateau near a small glacial lake at the foot of Pumori. Four Sherpas went ahead and established the climbing route. We crossed the JAC Glacier tongue, then ascended a slope of the side moraine and began to climb a rock wall. Along the ridge we reached Cl on a glacier plateau at about 6,000m. We fixed 600m of rope from the foot of the wall to Cl. We fixed 600m of rope from the foot of the wall to Cl. Above, a superb rocky spur led directly up the southeast face to the summit would have been an exhilarating ascent for skilled climbers. We, however, continued toward the 6,497m col and the next morning began to climb, encountering crevasses about five meters in width, which forced us to give up the ascent. We returned to Namche Bazaar via the Everest Highway.

Kanenori Emoto, Japanese Alpine Club