American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Hungchi

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2004

Hungchi, which lies south of the Nup La on the eastern rim of the Ngojumba Glacier, which itself forms the Nepal-Tibet frontier, is sometimes referred to as Cha Khung or Gyuba Tshomotse, and Fungqi in Chinese. Some members of the 2003 Japanese expedition had taken part in the first official attempt on this mountain, which was made via the southwest ridge during the autumn of 2001. However, with permitted but unclimbed 7,000ers in Nepal at a premium, it will perhaps come as no surprise to find the Japanese were not the only party on the mountain. Summiting just five days later was a group of Koreans. Few details are known of their ascent but for the most part they followed in the footsteps of the Japanese. Their route only differed in the initial section, where it is believed they approached the crest of the southwest ridge via the southeast rather than the west flank. Kim Jeon-Am, Kim Seung-Koo, Kim Sung-Ho, Jeong Chan-11, and Yoo Cheoi-Mok report reaching the summit on April 24.

Lindsay Griffin, High Mountain INFO

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