American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Danodar Himal, Amostang Reconnaisance and First Ascents of Thansunjiti (6084m) and Jomson (6335m)

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2004

Amotsang reconnaissance and first ascents of Thansunjiti (6,084m) and Jomson (6,335m). One of the expeditions on newly opened mountains was unsuccessful in its bids to climb this previously unattempted summit. A French team under the leadership of Paulo Grobel first had to make some exploration of the area in order to determine the correct location of their peak, Amotsang (6,392m), which lies to the northwest of Pokharkan in the West Manang-Damodar Region. After this they then had to decide which line to take. In the end, they never set foot on the mountain.

While some members made first ascents of two nearby mountains, three French members and one of their Sherpas went looking for the best place to set up a base camp from where they could scale Amotsang. The expedition had originally expected to climb the west ridge but quickly realized this was not possible. Instead, the explorers went around its southern side and then northward to the east side. They concluded that the best approach would be from its east side. By now there was no time left for a serious attempt. “At least we know where the mountain is and where there is a route up it,” Grobel remarked.

The two neighboring mountains climbed were: Thansunjiti (6,084m) on November 2 by Joycelyn Chavy, Hugues,de Varax, Yves Ebrayat, Frédéric Gaume, Grobel, Camille Jacquet, Neils Martin, Stephane Rouge, Ratna Man Lama, and Mingma Temba Sherpa via the north ridge; Jomson (6,335m) on November 4 by de Varax, Exbrayet, Gaume, Grobel, and Mingma Temba via the west ridge.

Elizabeth Hawley, Nepal

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