American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Dualagiri Himal, Tashi Kang and Peak 6195 m, Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2004

Tashi Kang and Peak 6,195m, ascents. While acclimatizing for their attempt on the northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri, a group of primarily German climbers successfully reaced the top of two low 6,000m peaks in the Hidden Valley, north-northeast of Dhaulagiri I. Angela Beltrame from Switzerland, and Olaf Köhler, Frank Meutzner, Götz Wiegland, and Olaf Zill from Germany climbed a straightforward unnamed peak of 6,195m and Tashi Kang I (6,386m). They followed the rocky southwest ridge of Tashi Kang I to reach the upper section of the southeast ridge. The lower part of the route was steep and narrow, while the upper southeast ridge rose to an icy 60°. Overall, the climbers found the route to be technically quite difficult and reached the top on April 19. These ascents were partly for acclimatization, partly for pure adventure.

In the autumn Tashi Kang was climbed again by Francois Borghese, Frederic Dufau-Joel, and Paul Grobel, from Grobel’s commercially-organized expedition to the popular 6,920m Tukuche (which was successful). The successful ascent took place on October 10 and a traverse was made of the mountain via the north ridge and a descent of the east face.

Elizabeth Hawley, Nepal

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