American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Gangotri, Bhagirathi Enchainment Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2004

Bhagirathi enchainment attempt. Americans Jonathan Copp and Dylan Taylor were attempting the ambitious project of an enchainment from Bhagirathi III (6,454m) to Bhagirathi II (6,512m) over the smaller unclimbed summit of Bhagirathi IV. They planned to first reach the summit of Bhagirathi III via the quasi-classic Scottish Route on the south west pillar. Their best attempt reached ca 5,800m just below the shale band. To this point they had climbed for two-and-a-half days carrying just a single-skin Goretex tent, one sleeping bag and minimal food and fuel to complete the traverse. A storm moved in and pinned them down for three days, after which they had no option but to retreat. Subsequent attempts failed to regain their high point.

The cal,350m Scottish Route (Bob Barton and Alan Fyffe, October 1982) was also attempted by Spanish, Joan Belmonte, Jordi Bonet, Joan Jover and Frederic Puig. They made two attempts in Alpine Style but only reached half-height on the pillar.

Lindsay Griffin, High Mountain INFO

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