American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Gangotri, Thalay Sagar, North Face, New Route, One Way Ticket

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2004

Thalay Sagar, north face, new route, One Way Ticket. Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz from France discovered a very thin line of goulottes and ice smears running up the face just left of the Central Couloir and climbed it over 10 days using a portaledge. The route featured sustained climbing between 6,000m and 6,500m, with a very thinly iced crux slab at ca 6,300m. Difficult mixed climbing through the shale band towards the top led to the last four pitches of the Australian-New Zealand Route, up which the pair gained the summit on October 30. During the ascent the climbers were confined to their portaledge for three nights in a storm, after which temperatures never rose above –15°C. Named One Way Ticket, the new route was thought to be least ED3 in standard with difficulties of WI6 M6 F5+. A lead article on this ascent appears earlier in this Journal.

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