Asia, Asia, Pakistan, West Himalaya, Nanga Parbat (8,126m), Rupal Face, New Route Attempt

Publication Year: 2004.

Nanga Parbat (8,126m), Rupal Face, new route attempt. The Slovenian, Tomaz Humar, was hoping to make an audacious solo ascent of a new route on the huge Rupal Face. From the beginning of July he made several attempts to acclimatize on the 1970 South East Pillar (aka Messner Route) with other climbers on his team but each time poor weather and conditions prevented him gaining much height. In the third week of July he made a fourth attempt on the almost 5,000m-high route with Croatian, Stipe Bozic. They camped above 6,000m. From there Humar set out solo to climb to 7,000m and return. However, at around 6,500m he gave up in the warm temperatures and deep unstable snow that had characterized conditions throughout his stay. As there was simply no chance that the face would improve, the team went home.

Lindsay Griffin, U.K.