American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Russia, Siberia, Czarsky Tron, Southwest Wall, New Route

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2004

Czarsky Tron, southwest wall, new route. In February 2003 a team from Krasnoyarsk climbed a new route on the southwest face of Czarsky Tron (Czar’s Throne, 2,500m) located in the Kodar Range, Eastern Siberia. The temperature on the arrival at base camp was -20°C. The extreme cold of last year (up to -50°C) came into mind. The team was flown by helicopter, which allowed them to save energy for the approach. They settled in an abandoned hut and dug a snow cave for nights near the base of the wall. It took 10 days to put in Camp I (after fixing six pitches) and Camp II (after fixing 11 pitches). The climbing was mostly hard aid. They proceeded up the 75° wall placing hooks, anchors, friends, and bolts. Free climbing seemed hardly possible because of poor rock. After establishing Camp II the team gathered in a portaledge for the summit push. It was getting warmer and the rising temperatures brought strong winds. They worked their way to the summit ridge with frozen fingers, the storm failing to calm down. After advancing 20 more meters, they finally reached the summit. The descent took a whole day and they arrived in base camp in darkness. This is possibly the hardest route on Czarsky Tron (1,000m, 6B). Members: Valery Balezin (leader), Alexander Kuharev, Alexey Sikilinda, Vladimir Arhipov, Egeny Dmitrienko, Anton Pugovkin, Sergey Cherezov, Uriy Glazyrin, Dmitry Tsyganov.

Y. Glazirin, www.Mountain.RU

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