American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Mermoz, New Variation

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2004

Aguja Mermoz, new variation. On February 7, 2004, Maciej Ciesielski and I added five new pitches, onsight at VII UIAA (5.10d) with one short tension traverse (new pitches: VII-, VII- /VII, VII-, VI+/A0 and V+), on the west face slabs between Ipermermoz and Cosas Patagonicas. These new pitches are nice but far from perfect: slabs with some rotten holds. We continued by freeing onsight the Ipermermoz route (Giordani-Levitti, 1996, originally VII+ A1), making a total of 14 pitches, plus 3 pitches on the summit ridge, 700m, 9 hours. Ours was the second ascent of Ipermermoz, and the first ascent of the route to the summit. (Giordani and Levitti stopped on the arête.)

Jakub Radziejowski, Poland

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