South America, Bolivia, Illusión, Illusión Congelada
Ilusión, Ilusión Congelada. On June 14 we established a new route on Ilusión (5,330m) in the Condoriri Group of the Cordillera Real. The 400m route had WI6X, II-III (5.3) rock, and 40- 70° snow, and required four hours to climb. The hardest and most serious part is the icefall in the middle of the west face, which is seen from the route to the glacier leading to Piramide Blanca. The approach is the same as for the Normal Route: head up the glacier that descends from Iluscionita and Ilusión to the left side of the col between the two mountains. About 100m before the col turn right and climb 60-70m of rock (UIAAII) to reach the base of the steep, thin icefall in the middle of the wall. Climb it (45m, 80-90°, one rock piton in the wall above the first ice mushroom) and reach the big shelf above the rock barrier (very thin ice—it collapsed after our ascent—start early in the morning!).
Climb straight up the snow, which steepens to 60°, to reach a 5m rock section (II-III), which leads to the snow shelf that crosses the face. Follow it to the snow slopes of the Direct Route. Turn up left and climb the snow (150m, 70°) between the rock sections to reach the ridge. Follow it to the summit and descend the Normal or Direct Route.
Branko Ivanek and Andrej Pecjak, Slovenia