American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Chaupijanca, Shicra, West Face and Southeast Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2004

Shicra, west face and southeast ridge. On July 5 Evelio Echevarria, Consuelo Amorós (my wife), and I left the mining town Pachapaqui, and reached the foot of the snowy peak local muleteers call Shicra (5,195-5,198m, per altimeter). This is the peak the 1972 Italian Expedition wanted to name “Nevado Cuidad de Macerata” (ca 5,000m). On July 9 Evelio ascended the eastern summit of an unnamed rocky peak (ca 4,900m) situated beyond a pass to the right of the peak the Italian expedition proposed calling “Margaroliraju” (5,205m). This same day Consuelo and I ascended Shicra via the right side of the west glacier to gain the corniced southeast ridge, which we climbed to the summit. We believe this is a new route and the second ascent of the peak. The Italians ascended the peak via the western glacier. The Peruvian geographic authorities did not recognize the Italian names, and the names do not appear on Peru’s National Geographic Institute’s maps.

Antonio Gómez Bohórquez, Spain (Translated by Molly Loomis)

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