American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Tocllaraju, MGLA to Northwest Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2004

Tocllaraju, MGLA to Northwest Ridge. On July1 Mitja Glescic, and I climbed a new route on the west face of Tocllaraju (6,032m). The route begins in the middle of the rocky section on the left side of the wall and then angles slightly to the right. The first pitch is the most difficult, about 90° with bad ice and rock (mixed). Most of the climbing was 60-70° snow and ice in the middle of the couloir, which goes slightly to the right below the seracs. The route arrives on the Northwest Ridge at about 5,900m, and we descended from there by the normal route. Our route, MGLA, is about 400 meters high. (TD+ 90°(max)/60-70°(avg)). In deep snow, it took three hours from camp to reach the face, then four hours for the climbing.

Arcon Jernej, Slovenia

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