American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Chopicalqui, Significant Repeats

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2004

Chopicalqui, significant repeats. The Spanish climber Jordi Corominas made a rare repeat and possibly the first solo of what is thought to be the 1979 Japanese Route (Kamuro-Uejima) on the south face of Chopicalqui (6,395m). The steep face has a serac barrier low on it, a snow- and-ice slope in the middle, and a rib at the top, leading to the Southeast Ridge below where it meets the Southwest Ridge (1,200m, TD). Corominas descended the normal route on the Southwest Ridge, itself a serious undertaking.

Slovenian Tadej Zorman made a probable second ascent of Strah in Sceca (Fear and Happiness) on the west face, more than 20 years after its first ascent. This route was climbed in June 1982 by the legendary Slovenians Marjan Freser and Franci Knez, and takes a slanting line up the center of the face to reach the Northwest Ridge between the north and main summits. The climb, which originally took two days, is about 1,000m high, TD (50-60°), and is threatened by serac formations that characterize this central part of the face.

Lindsay Griffin, High Mountain INFO

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