North America, Mexico, Nuevo León, Parque Nacional Cumbres de Monterrey, La Huasteca, Abuelo Fuego

Publication Year: 2004.

La Huasteca, Abuelo Fuego. Tatewari is a stunning 550-meter limestone wall in the Canon de Escaleras, near Monterrey. After the 2001 sport-climb first ascent by Carlos Garcia and Francisco Trad, in June 2002 a group of locals (Francisco Medina, Paul Vera, and I, Jimmy Carse) ascended a new route in traditional style. The route follows a prominent crack system, with an incredible rock-pillar bridge, formed by the pillar having toppled against the main wall on the fourth pitch. There are several bivy ledges. Four bolts were placed on lead, as well as anchors, using a hand drill. The main sources of pro were angles, Lost Arrows, stoppers, and a few tied-off bushes and palm trees. There was one aid pitch: lots of hook moves, with one bolt and a sketchy pin. There were several loose freeclimbing leads as well, with poor protection and no falls. Who knows if the pro would have held? We slept one night on natural ledges on pitch five, accompanied by Rafa Cornelius and Adrian “Orejo” who jugged behind us with food and beer. They bailed early the next morning, due to constant rockfall caused by us climbing above. This route went at 5.10X A3+, was led in 12 pitches of 40-60 meters, and was lots of fun.

Jimmy Carse, Team Tzolkin

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