American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, South Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Nalumasortoq, South-Southwest Face of Left Pillar, New Route

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2004

Nalumasortoq, south-southwest face of Left Pillar, new route. At the end of June a four-member team from Spanish TV arrived in Greenland. We flew to Narssarssuaq and then Iñaki San Vicente and I paddled sea kayaks for eight days to the Tasermiut Fjord, landing below the towers of Ulamertorssuaq and Nalumasortoq. From July 9–16, San Vicente, Ferran Latorre and myself climbed a new route on the left hand pillar of Nalumasortoq, just left of Life is Beautiful. The route is a classic line following an obvious series of cracks and corners on the black part of the wall. Black unfortunately means lichen and we spent much time cleaning the route. In fact, we debated over naming our line, Black Roses. Over three days from the 9th–11th we fixed to the eighth pitch. Then on the 15th we climbed two more pitches and returned to bivouac at the top of the seventh pitch, where there is a good ledge. The first nine pitches are between F6a and 6c/7a. On the next three pitches we used some aid but climbed the remaining two free. The last pitch was perhaps the most dirty; completely covered in thick black lichen. On the 16th we climbed to the top and returned to the bivouac, rappelling to the ground on the following day. The route has 14 pitches and was filmed for the television documentary series Al Filo de lo Imposible.

Jose Carlos Tamayo, Spain

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