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North America, Canada, Cirque of the Unclimbables, East Huey Spire, Don't Panic It's Organic

East Huey Spire, Don't Panic It’s Organic. Scott Hollander and I climbed a new route on East Huey this summer. Our trip was fortunate to have great weather, but it still rained most afternoons. After our two and a half days of travel from the states we were happy to have arrived in Fairy Meadows. If you can afford it, I recommended renting a chopper to Fairy Meadows. Unfortunately, we hiked up from the lake. Scott and I established Don’t Panic It’s Organic (IV 5.10+ Cl) over two days. Our route name commemorates the extensive cleaning of vegetation required of us. DPIO is located left of Riders on the Storm, in the prominent, right-facing corner system. Above this corner, it meanders up right to the top of the buttress. Rap stations were rigged with mostly nuts, though one anchor required two bolts. Scott and I believe that the bottom of Riders on the Storm and the top of our route would make a great free climb.

Josh Gross, Moab, Utah