Peak 11,520', north face to summit ridge. A new route was climbed by Marty Beare and me on May 14 and 15 on the northern aspect of Peak 11,520'. The route ascends an obvious couloir that extends from the valley floor (8,500' on the west fork of the Tokositna Glacier) to the summit cornice ( 11,500'), finishing just east of the summit. Most of the route consists of 50-60° ice, with three steeper ramps giving short sections of 75-85° climbing. The steepest, most sustained ice is found at the foot of the couloir. The route gives approximately 20 pitches of climbing. Estimated grade: Alaskan 3+, AI 4/4+. Location: 151 deg.0l E, 62 deg.57.5 N. Descent was via the couloir, using V-threads and rock gear during a snowstorm. Beware spindrift avalanches!
Pat Deavoll, New Zealand