American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
Black Diamond Logo

North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Kahiltna Dome, Choo-Choo Express

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2004

Kahiltna Dome, Choo-Choo Express. On April 23 Erick Lawson and David Mullins climbed a route, which they called Choo-Choo Express, directly up the east face of Kahiltna Dome. They left their camp at ca 9,000' on the Kahiltna Glacier, descended about 400' to avoid crevasses, then made a steep, rising traverse to about 10,000'. From there they continued straight up the east face until joining the broad Northeast Ridge (1951) at ca 12,000', where Lawson fell into a crevasse. The pair descended this ridge, without continuing to the summit, until reaching a col from where they rappelled straight down over cornices, chopping bollards and thus leaving no gear. The route has constant 40-60° snow and ice, some 75° snow, and three pitches of vertical ice (up to about 100' each) over seracs.

From Talkeetna Ranger Station files and personal communication with Lawson

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.