American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Borah Peak, Psycho Therapy

United States, Idaho

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Dean Lords
  • Climb Year: 2003
  • Publication Year: 2004

On September 18, following the first major snow of the year, Brian Wood and I established Psycho Therapy (1,200', 5.9+ M6 AI4) on the north face of Borah Peak. This route follows the obvious couloir and black shaft of rock on the far right side of the face. The route starts with two pitches of alpine ice and a few mixed sections, before entering the shaft (a.k.a. Shock Treatment). The shaft is sustained for three pitches and involves steep climbing on icy runnels, snow-covered rock, and two large chockstones. After the second chockstone the angle eases and one and a half pitches of ice and rock in a wild setting finish in a steep notch on the northwest ridge. Brian and I spent 22 hours round trip from the mouth of Rock Creek. With more ice in the shaft, this route could be less difficult.

Dean Lords

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