North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Hallucinogen Wall, Free Attempt
Hallucinogen Wall, free attempt. In September and October I tried to free climb this route twice. On the first attempt, with Mike Shepard, we rapped to pitch 14 and climbed out from the top of pitch 14, all free at 5.12. Pitch 14 is a bolt ladder and will never go free. On the second attempt Topher Donahue and I climbed all free up to pitch five, at 5.11-. From here I led free past three bolts and finished through the pendulum to Fantasy Island using some aid. Topher followed to the pendulum point, lowered to a series of face holds leading left from my free high point, and on top rope climbed across this face to Fantasy Island at 5.12c/d. He then led pitch seven free, at 5.12a. Pitch eight is protected by RPs and rusty fixed heads, so I freed between them, with Topher following free at 5.11+. The next five pitches are A3 heading, hooking, and bolt ladders and will never be free climbed. We found free passage up to pitch nine in a day and rapped. At least future parties know that much of the route can be free-climbed. We didn’t add any bolts or change the route in any way.