American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, The Three Gargoyles

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2004

The Three Gargoyles. This new tower route in Arches National Park is on the same formation as Zenyatta Endrada, around the right, or southeast, side, and was established by Jimmy Dunn, Hellen Heaven, Joe Slansky, and Bill Guymon. It climbs the towers that look like either a prairie dog or an alien and are separated from the Tower of Babel by a gash. It’s odd and incredible. One climbs 50 feet, goes left 250 feet on the Ray Charles traverse, through a cavern formation, up an aid seam, a slab for a slob, around the corner to a hand-crack groove, then a star chimney to the first Gargoyle head, leap over to the second head, and an R-rated boulder move to the highest head. Seven pitches, IV 5.11 A2. Jimmy raved for months that it was the most interesting climb he’d ever Dunn.

Joe Slansky

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