American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington, Southern Picket Range, Complete Enchainment

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2004

Southern Picket Range, Complete Enchainment. In July this long-standing east-to-west challenge was completed by Mark Bunker, Colin Haley, and Wayne Wallace. All 14 major summits in the southern Pickets were climbed during the four-day traverse, several by new routes. The peaks along the Complete Southern Pickets Traverse (VI 5.10+) are as follows: July 25: Little McMillan Spire, southeast face, III 5.8; East McMillan Spire, east ridge, II 5.6; West McMillan Spire, east ridge/face, III 5.8. July 26: Inspiration Peak, east ridge, III 5.9; Pyramid Peak, east ridge/face, II 5.8; Mt. Degenhart, east ridge, class 4; Mt. Terror, east ridge, II 5.6; The Rake, east ridge, IV 5.9. July 27: East Twin Needle, southeast ridge/face, II 5.10a; West Twin Needle, east ridge, class 3; Himmelhorn, east ridge/north face, II 5.10+; Ottohorn, east ridge, class 4; Frenzlespitz, southeast ridge/face, II 5.6. July 28: Chopping Block, northeast face, II 5.6. A total of about 50 technical pitches in all. Three routes were first ascents: The Rake, East Twin Needle, and Himmelhorn. For more information, see Wallace’s article earlier in this Journal.

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