American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Pumori North Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2003

Pumori north ridge. A new route was successfully forged on the Tibetan side of Everest’s 7,161m (23,494') neighbor Pumori. The noted Swiss mountaineer, Erhard Loretan, led a group of nine members, all but one also Swiss, in the first attempt of its north ridge. They made their base and advance base camps at the sites of the corresponding camps for climbs on the north side of Everest and then moved west into the Pumori Glacier to pitch their first high camp here at 5,700m (18,700'). They had to climb their long, steep ridge with care, Loretan said, up a section of loose rock followed by another of powder snow. The expedition gained the summit in two parties. The first, Loretan and a Swiss member, went to the top on May 7 from their second high camp at 6,050m (19,850'), which was on the ridge itself. The next party of four more Swiss set up another camp on the ridge at 6,700m (22,000') on the 9th and summited the following day with Loretan, who had come up to their high camp early the same morning to go with them.

Elizabeth Hawley, Nepal

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