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Asia, China, Sichuan, Siguniang, First Ascent of North Face

Siguniang, first ascent of north face. Taking 6 days, Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden made the first ascent of the north face of Siguniang, in April, 2002. Then, they made a two-day descent of the unclimbed north ridge. Most of days they endured snow, but they were rewarded with a glorious, clear summit day. Difficulties ranged from grade VI rock to poor quality, nearly vertical ice (Scottish VI). The ice choked dike was 750m long, with several long vertical pitches and two overhanging sections. The climb was made using only natural protection; bolts were not carried. See the “Siguniang” lead article earlier in this Journal.