American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Rowaling Himal, Teng Kang Poche, Pre-Monsoon Attempts

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2003

Teng Kang Poche, pre-monsoon attempts. Taking advantage of the recent addition to the permitted list of peaks of this splendid 6,500m mountain on the ridge west of Kwangde, the French Alpine Club chose Teng Kang Poche as the venue for an expedition comprising several well-known guides and 14 young alpinists from the CAF’s “Excellence Group.” The expedition divided into two groups; one attempting the mountain from the difficult north side above the Thame Valley, while the second would try the easier but more remote southern flanks. Both hoped to make the first official ascent.

In recent years a number of parties have attempted to get permission to climb the magnificent granite north pillar of Teng Kang Poche or the more icy northeast face, both well- known and clearly visible Khumbu objectives, but it wasn’t until 2001 that the peak was brought on to the official permitted list. It is not certain who were the first ascensionists of Teng Kang Poche, though the mountain was certainly climbed in 1984 via the east ridge from the Lumding Valley by the late Trevor Pilling and Andy Zimet.

The southern slopes of Teng Kang Poche lie toward the head of the remotely situated and largely uninhabited Lumding Valley, reached via a high pass from the main valley of the Dudh Kosi. The French arrived at their 5,100m base camp by a lake below Kwangde in early April. However, considerable snow fall and warm temperatures did not allow much progress and after reaching around 5,900m on both the south ridge and east ridge during the middle of the month, the climbers decided all possible routes were too dangerous and gave up.

On the north side the second group started up the easier lower section of the impressive north pillar, then moved left on to the northeast face. Again, poor weather prevented success and a high point of 6,100m was achieved.

Lindsay Griffin, High Mountain INFO

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