American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Central, Cordillera Jatún Chácua, Clarification, and Cerro Janpari, Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 2003

Cordillera Jatún Chácua, clarification, and Cerro Janpari, ascent. The Cordillera Jatún Chácua is located south of the Cordillera Raura and north of the Cordillera de la Viuda. The only access is through the mining town of Oyón and up the Pucayacu valley. This range was first explored by a 1971 Polish expedition (AAJ 1972, p. 167), which climbed several peaks in the southern end of the range, including the highest, Nevado Chácua Grande (5,350m). In mid-2001, a German Alpine Club party repeated that climb and made several others in the same area, but the Germans mistakenly stated that they had been in the Cordillera Raura, which is some 40 km to the north (AAJ 2001, p. 283). In July I entered the range and reached as far south as Pistag Pass, the only access to the eastern side and its attractive ice peaks. Bad weather forced me to retreat from the misty eastern side of the range to the western slopes. On July 3 I climbed the serrated P5,000m above Cochapata Pass, by its west face on good rock. But its true elevation was probably only 4,900m, and it had a cairn on top. I named it Cerro Janpari (Quechua for “Many Points”). After exploring the Jancapata Valley in bad weather, I retreated to Oyón.

Evelio Echevarria, AAC

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