South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Siula Grande, West Face Nearly to Summit Ridge

Publication Year: 2003.

Siula Grande, west face nearly to summit ridge. Dutch climbers Eva Oomen and Rogier van Rijn made an attempt on the west face of Siula Grande (6,348m), climbing 800m in nine hours on July 31. They climbed (ED 90°+) to the left of the three existing lines on the face. They report: “It is an ice line with sections of rotten vertical ice. We took almost no gear and tried to climb the whole face in a day. We had to descend from a couple of meters below the main summit ridge because of very unstable snow conditions. During the descent we were almost killed by a huge serac avalanche.”

Lindsay Griffin, High Mountain INFO