American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Pisco Oeste, Via Traversiade

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2003

Pisco Oeste, Via Traversiade. On the south face of Pisco Oeste (5,752m) on August 21 Italians Tarcisio Bello, Ivan Camolini, Michele Grigenti, and Bruno Castegnaro climbed what may be a new route, Via Traversiade (TD+, 90°) in 10 hours from the base of the wall. (Many routes ascend the south face of this popular mountain but not all are well documented, making new route research difficult.) After climbing nearly to the summit ridge, just below and left of the summit, they were forced to rappel 30m and traverse right to gain the summit on very difficult ice (90°–95°, some aid). The line is thought to be between the 1977 (Bougnaud-Vallen9ant-Barrand) and 1981 (Bougnaud-Wilson) routes.

Richard Hidalgo, Peru

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