American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Abasraju to Summit Ridge, Moonlighting

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2003

Abasraju to summit ridge, Moonlighting. On July 7 Tony Barton (U.K.) and I climbed a new route (Moonlighting, 11 pitches, TD) on the west-southwest face of Abasraju (5,550m). There is only one other route on the face, and it goes up to the left of the summit. Our route is an almost vertical line approximately 200m to the right of the summit. At the base of the face, directly below the summit, is a small rock buttress. To the right is another larger rock buttress. Between the two is a snow funnel that leads up to an ice runnel. We followed this into mixed ground and then out into névé runnels which led to a more open face with soft snow. Finally, below the large cornice we traversed right to find a way to the summit ridge. We didn’t go to the summit because of the snow conditions.

Nick Carter, Glasgow University Mountaineering Club

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