American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Alpamayo to North Ridge, Sensations of History

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2003

Alpamayo to north ridge, Sensations of History. On August 8 the Catalans Josep Escruela and Tino Tain climbed the gully to the right of the Ferrari Route. From the Alpamayo-Quitaraju pass they reached the start of the Spanish-Chilean Route, subsequently climbing to the left along the base of the bergschrund before crossing it at the start of the French Gully. They climbed 120m leftward across 45°–50° slopes to reach the left-hand gully. Precarious curtains of 90°–95° ice, with poor belays, led to a narrow gully between the Ferrari Route and the French Gully. The gully was climbed, mostly on 60°–75° ice and snow, to the north ridge. They descended the Ferrari Route without continuing to the summit. The team estimated that the route was 400m long, with a UIAA grade of ED, 45o–60°–95°. They called it Sensations of History.

Antonio Gómez Bohórquez, Spain (translated by José Luis Bermúdez)

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