American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, East Greenland, Lemon Mountains, Various Ascents

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2003

Lemon Mountains, various ascents. During July and August an eight-person British Alpine Club-Alpine Climbing Group team led by Roy Ruddle visited East Greenland. Primary objectives were important new routes in the South Lemons and major first ascents in the previously untrodden North Lemons. Poor glacial conditions forced the party to land some 14km north west of their planned site, but the compensation was that the climbers were now able to look at additional objectives in the western outliers of the Lindbergh range.

Operating in three separate groups, the party was the first to explore the glaciers to the north of the Courtauld Glacier and to make a complete south to north traverse of the Læbæltet Glacier, including the circumscription of the mountains to its northwest. During this exploration Geoff Cohen and Dave Wilkinson managed to penetrate the North Lemons and complete an outstanding first ascent of one of the highest peaks. The Spear (ca 2,500m) was climbed via its North East Face in a continuous 34-hour push (Alpine TD, see below).

Derek Buckle, Andy and Rachel Gallagher, and Martin Scott between them made the first ascents of six peaks in the North and East Lemons. In addition they achieved second and third ascents of Horseshoe Peak East and West via a new route up the central North East couloir. This group also made three first ascents in the western outliers of the Lindbergh Mountains, including the most southerly of the Trillingerne Group and two mountains directly to the north. Second ascents were also made of the Trillingerne Central and Main peaks via new routes up the North Ridge and South Face respectively.

Robert Durran and Roy Ruddle were less successful, failing on their major objectives; the East Face of Mitivagkat East through technical difficulty, Cathedral East through illness and Narren through high avalanche risk. The entire team probably covered more ground than any previous expedition to the Lemons, skiing in total approximately 1,000km. Apart from the routes climbed by Cohen and Wilkinson, covered in a separate report, the expedition made the following ascents (all previously unclimbed peaks except where noted): Cloisters East (2,240m) via the South Ridge; Dinosaur Domes (several summits to 2,178m) climbed on ski from the south; Bantam Point (2,058m) F+; Second ascent of Trillingerne Central (2,176m) via a new route up the North Ridge (PD+); Trillingerne South (2,158m) via North West Ridge (AD); Scimitar (2,735m) via West Ridge (PD+); Tent Peak (2,479m) via East Ridge (PD); Second ascent of Horseshoe Peak East (1,916m) via new route up West Ridge (PD+); Second ascent of Horseshoe Peak West (1,928m) via new route up East Ridge (F+); Snowbunting Point (1,810m) via East Couloir (PD+); Sentinel Peak (1,740m) via West Ridge (PD+); Whaleback (1,964m) via North West Ridge (F); Fin (2100m) via North Ridge (PD-); Goblin (2,175m) via South Ridge (PD); Second ascent of Trillingerne Main (2,295m) via a new route up South Face (AD-).

Derek Buckle and Roy Ruddle, Alpine Club

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