American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Denali National Park, Ruth Gorge, The Eye Tooth, West Face, The Dream in the Spirit of Mugs

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2003

Ruth Gorge, The Eye Tooth, West Face, The Dream in the Spirit of Mugs, new variation. After trying to do ice and mixed climbing on Denali and Mt. Hunter, Julian Neumayer and I changed our plans because of Alaska’s tropical temperatures, flying to the Ruth Gorge to climb rock. On June 16 we made the sixth ascent of The Dream in the Spirit of Mugs, in 10 hours to the summit ridge, by a new variation. Perhaps because we were happy to climb again, after sitting too long in the tent, we missed the route after the third pitch and climbed a new variation to the right, up to the bivy spot at pitch 13. Right of the big 120m corner, we climbed seven long (up to 80m) pitches on slabs, directly through a small roof system. The climbing went at easy 5.10 on very good rock.

Alexander Fidi, Austria

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