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North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Left Mary, The Insider

Left Mary, The Insider. The Insider (IV+ 5.10 A1), established by Bryan Bird and me in 2001, entails nine pitches on the southeast face, in a prominent crack system running parallel to and left of the Gentleman’s Agreement. The upper half of the route ascends the obvious gaping chimney. The chimney pitches inspired the name of the route. No bolts were placed. Rap off pine trees to the east into a notch. A few more raps down a gully get you to the ground. We recommend the route, but with a warning of a few “dodgy” pitches.

Eric Draper