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North America, United States, Arizona, Lost Horizon, First Free Ascent

Lost Horizon, first free ascent. On January 29 Ty Mack and I made the first free ascent of the stunning Lost Horizon route, located in Lost Canyon in Sedona, AZ. Lost Horizon follows an impeccable corner system for four long pitches. The climbing is both strenuous and technical. We added three protection bolts where natural gear was not possible. The four pitches are rated 5.12c, 5.13a, 5.12c/d, and 5.11. Lost Canyon, also the location of the ultraclassic five-pitch 5.12, Shangri-La, now features a stellar concentration of hard long free climbs.

Matt Childers