American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Quo Vadis

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2003

El Capitan, Quo Vadis. During the night of November 20-21 Jacek Czyz, solo, finished Quo Vadis (VI 5.9 A4/A4+), a new route near the Muir Wall and the Dorn Direct, with which it shares a couple of pitches, and left of the Nose. Of the 22 pitches, 16 entered new terrain. Four pitches are rated A4/A4+. The sixth pitch is the crux, involving about 30' on skyhooks and a 15' pendulum to a crack climbed with RURPs and copperheads. A further 13 or 14 pitches are A3. The climb took 25 days, and Czyz’s return to the base of the wall took two additional days of rappelling. He left 40 bolts, 30 as belay anchors, and used 40 rivets. Jacek Czyz is a Polish climber residing in Chicago and an AAC member. He has climbed El Cap 16 times, including solo ascents of the Reticent Wall and Zanyatta Mondatta.

Wladyslaw Janowski

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