American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Everest, Post-monsoon Attempts

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

Everest, post monsoon attempts. In complete contrast to the spring, only three expeditions attempted Everest from the north. All were unsuccessful and no one managed to climb higher than 7800m. Two teams were on the standard North Col-north ridge route, including the American double amputee, Ed Hommer. The third expedition was attempting the rarely-climbed east (Kangshung) face. Five climbing members from Hungary under the leadership of David Klein were attempting the 1988 Anglo-American Route. Their maximum altitude was just 6300m, which they reached after more than four weeks on the mountain. They finally abandoned their attempt after many days of heavy snowfall followed by days of dangerous avalanches down the extremely steep face. They would climb a little, snow would fall heavily, they would retreat to a safe camp, wait two days for the avalanches to stop, go back up again and then the same pattern would repeat itself. Luckily none were killed or even seriously injured, though Klein was briefly knocked unconscious by stone fall and two other members were carried inside their tent 250 meters down to the bottom of the face, when an avalanche struck their camp.

Elizabeth Hawley

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