American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, China, Yunnan Province, Sichuan, Jarjinjabo Range, First Ascent of Unnamed Rock Tower

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

Jarjinjabo Range, first ascent of unnamed rock tower. Four Japanese climbers, Eiji Daigo, Yuriko Kowaka, Naoki Ohuchi, and Taizo Yoshida, made the first ascent of an unnamed granite tower in the Jarjinjabo Massif above Zhopu Pasture. This region of West Sichuan lies close to the border (Yangste River) with Tibet and approximately 65 km northeast of Batang on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway. The team established base camp on July 25 at 4050m on the Zhopu Pasture and on the 26th set up an advanced camp at ca 4700m below the tower, after making a non-glaciated approach. On the 27th they fixed the first 100 meters of the south pillar in three pitches and after two days of rain recommenced by climbing 10 pitches and bivouacking. The following day, the 31st, they completed a further three pitches to the summit and descended. The 320-meter-high wall (480 meters of climbing) gave maximum difficulties of 5.10a and Al. Although nearly 70 percent of the route followed good cracks, the team used more aid than expected due to the heavy rain.

Tamotsu Nakamura, Japanese Alpine News

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.