American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, China, West Kun Lun, Seilik Gulam Muztag, First Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

Seilik Gulam Muztag, first ascent. A Japanese expedition comprising four climbers led by Hiroshi Onishi was successful in making the first ascent of Seilik Gulam Muztag (6691m), formerly known as Kashitashi, completing the route attempted by an expedition in 2000, of which Onishi was a member. The Japanese mountaineers established Base Camp at 3800m on July 31 and a couple of days later Advanced Base at 4500m north west of the peak. Camp 1 was placed at 5170m near the foot of the North Ridge. By the August 11 Camp 3 had been established at 6200m on the ridge, from where several ropes were fixed up steeper snow slopes to the top of a 6400m snow dome, the highest point reached by the 2000 party. At 6:30 a.m. on the 12th all four members left Camp 3 in the dark and reached the top of the dome at 8:00 a.m. Continuing in unstable weather the climbers followed a wide snow ridge split by many small crevasses and then a final knife edge to reach the highest point a little after 3:00 p.m. The weather cleared at this point and the team was able to have fine views of the unclimbed West Peak (6650m) before making their descent.

Tamotsu Nakamura, Japanese Alpine News

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