American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Manaslu Himal, Manaslu, P2, First Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2002

P2, first ascent. As noted above, one of the aims of the Ukrainian expedition to Manaslu was to make the first ascent of P2 (6251m a.k.a. Simnag Himal East), a minor summit along the east ridge of Ngadi Chuli (7871m a.k.a. Peak 29) immediately south of Manaslu. Getting permission to climb P2 was very difficult, as the peak was only brought on to the permitted list part way through the season. It was necessary for the President of the Ukraine to send a letter to the King of Nepal and for the expedition leader to meet with both the King and Prime Minister of Nepal. We only got the permit at the beginning of May.

Subsequently Mstyslav Gorbenko, Vadim Leontiev, Sergei Pugachov, and Mykhaylo Zagirnyak climbed the northern flanks of P2 above the Pungen Glacier to reach the east ridge at ca 5200m. The main difficulties on this section were deep snow, a big rimaye at 5000m, and an ice slope above. Once on the ridge we cached equipment in a snow cave dug into the south flank in preparation for the final push. The corniced east ridge itself was generally of moderate difficulty but presented two crux sections; a tricky gendarme at around 5800m and, higher, an 80-meter snow-covered rock wall. The climb was awarded an overall grade of 5A on the Russian scale. Three days were spent on the final ascent, with the summit reached at 4 p.m. on May 14.

Mstyslav Gorbenko, Ukraine

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